Wristed Arm


The First part of this is to get a radius arm and some 1/2 plate, I used and old radius arm I had lying around, its better to use a different one then the one on your truck because you never know how long it will take you, so hit the Pick and Pull and grab some. Fullsize and EB arms are the same arm, the only difference is the sapcing on the coil pad bolts, but those are easly re-drilled. They take around 6-8 hours to build

 


2 12"long 2" wide1/2 plate 2 12"long 2.5" wide 1/2 plate

torch.jpg (61694 bytes)  Grind, cut and/or molest the piece of 1/2" 2 inch wide plate to just barely fit in between the channels of the radius arm
 Clean off the of the Radius arm and weld the filler plate (1/2" 2" wide plate) to the arm, weld in small tacks so you do not over heat the arm, the connects your Tacks and fully weld it

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Grind your welds down on the filler plate so it is flat with the Radius arm, then get the Piece of 1/2" that is 2.5 inches wide, you need to cut it down to fit on the outside of the arm so you can weld it to the top of the channels and the top of the radius arm, this way it will be flush, (it does not have to be perfect, you can grind it later) Tack this plate onto the arm so when your drilling your holes they will all lineup
   

slider.jpg (52434 bytes)My Friend Alex Had a Drill Press he was willing to let me use

 Drill it out!, if you do not have a press find a friend with one ( like I did) because you will need one, I started small and Went up to a 1 inch hole for the Pivot bolt and 7/8 bolt on the pinning bolt, I put the 1 inch hole as close to the C as I could, the 7/8 pinning bolt siting about 4-5 inches back from the C
   
After your Holes are drilled, knock off the top plate that you tacked on and right behind the pinning hole cut the arm in half, the on the back half of the arm cut about another 1 1/2 inches off the arm for clearance when the arm pivots, then check this and sure you have ample room for the arm to move.

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Ahh a nice ban saw will make short work of the cutting

 Tack weld your top plate back on and double check all of your bolt hole, and the movement of the arm.
I then welded a 1 inch .125 wall DOM in the pivot hole to give it something to rub against, I then used 2 7/8 Grade 5 bolts and nylon lock nuts to hold it together.

You can also add another piece of 1/2 plate to the back half of the arm, on the top of it to help strengthen it up, but I had some good penetration so I did not do this

I then added a shock mount, I mounted as close to the C as I could, I used some 2x2 and cut 1 of the walls off then welded that to about 1.5 inches of 1 inch OD round tube then welded that to the arm


Bolt it back on the truck and your done, ready for flex

If you are still unsure of doing this, I can do it for, E-mail Me For pricing and options, I am in the East Bay area, CA, but will ship anywhere.

-Mark Harris